Olive Oil

Gourmet Newsletter

March 1-14, 2010

For many chefs and home cooks, olive oil is the best way to flavor a meal. It has transformational powers that enhance a food’s flavor and takes items that may seem boring, like chicken, veggies or even popcorn, and upscale them in a way that no other ingredient manages to do.

A few of my favorite ways to use this oil is drizzled on avocado slices with a grinding of black pepper, splashed on spicy arugula with a sprinkle of fleur de sel, or baked in a cake, such as an Almond Olive Oil Cake. Growing up in a house where olive oil was used in place of butter over 90% of the time, I have come to appreciate the characteristics of this oil---the color (the greener the better), the density (the denser the better), the flavor, the pressing process, and the simplicity of the olive; how something so small could produce something so magnificent.

The history of olive oil, or “liquid gold” as Homer liked to call it, is quite grand. The olive tree is native to the Mediterranean landscape and the first people to collect wild olives were the Neolithic people of the 8th millennium B.C. Historians believe the first cultivation of olive oil began on the island of Crete in Greece. The best version of olive oil is extra virgin olive oil. One of the most important elements of the Mediterranean diet, extra virgin olive oil is unrefined, unprocessed, pure, and natural. Olive oil is a monounsaturated fat that is also bursting with vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. The types of olive oils include:

• Pure Olive Oil- Filtered and refined, undergoes some processing
• Extra Light Olive Oil- Considerable processing and only retains a mild olive flavor
• Virgin Olive Oil- The Second Pressing of olives
• Extra Virgin Olive Oil (EVOO)- Considered the best, least processed and from the first pressing of the olives

Consuming olive oil instead of butter has been shown to decrease the prevalence of heart disease and is also “heart protective.” In addition, recent studies have shown that olive oil, in combination with fresh fruits and vegetables enhance the benefits of those foods on their own. At Sickles Market, we are always searching for top quality products especially when it comes to olive oil. We have Italian, Greek and Spanish olive oils as well as specialty olive oils like white truffle oil. Add truffle oil to any pasta dish, and you will feel like you are sitting in a Roman trattoria!

Over the next two weeks Sickles Market will be holding an olive oil blind tasting contest featuring six olive oils we carry in the store. We hope you will come on in and participate, let us know what your favorites are, and what foods you like to prepare with olive oil!

Tip: When storing olive oil remember this: Olives are fruit; olive oil is a fruit juice. Air, heat, and light will cause olive oil to turn bad. The ideal temperature for storing olive oil is 57° (14 C), although a normal room temperature of 70º works very well if the olive oil is stored in a dark area where the temperature remains fairly constant.

Recipes:
Olive Oil Fried Eggs with Mozzarella and Harissa
Crostini with Lump Crab Salad and Extra Virgin Olive Oil
Almond Olive Oil Cake
Olive Oil Mashed Potatoes

Olive oils in this demo will receive the 15% Gourmet Club discount from
March 1 – 14, 2010.

Poetry in the Winter Garden

Garden Center Newsletter
February 2010
By Pat Dumas

I heard a bird so sing, whose music, to my thinking, pleased the king.

- William Shakespeare

We see and hear them every day. But, nothing is as sweet as the song of a winter-weary bird calling for spring to come. If you’re going a little crazy waiting for your flowers to bloom, don't fret-- the birds are here, and there's a whole new variety of seed, birdhouses, and foods to keep our beautiful, feathered friends happy. View the birds as the flowers of the late winter garden-- cheering us long before the daffodils and crocus bloom.

The best time to see a great variety of birds is before, during and after it snows. Bird sense bad weather, eat up, and then look for shelter. They’ll fly a good distance to find good shelter, and this is where you come in. A decorative wooden birdhouse, hanging gourd, or even a hollowed-out coconut from your winter vacation provides birds with the perfect shelter. Birds are attracted to them in winter not only for protection but for overnight roosting-- sometimes cramming together inside a dozen at a time for warmth. Birdhouses are not just for babies and summer-- so you'll actually see more cavity-nesting birds when you offer winter shelter.

Although stale bread and breakfast leftovers will always attract our feathered neighbors (and squirrels, too) there's a better way to bring and keep them around: Water. In addition to a good commercial bird seed, water is the most important thing you can provide for the birds in winter. More water equals more birds, and it's easy to keep water unfrozen in a high quality, decorative bird bath. A little hot water poured over the ice in the morning does the trick.

Choosing seed and food for the birds doesn’t have to be complicated—a brand such as Coles is one of the best. Each seed variety caters to specific birds, and each bag has an informative blurb. Cardinals adore safflower seed (while the squirrels hate it!). Seed sprinkled with a special hot pepper mix also discourages naughty squirrels from daylight robbery. Mixed seed with berries entices the fruit and small seed-loving birds like sparrows, juncos, and wrens. Seed mixed with peanuts attracts jays, titmice and nuthatches. Niger seed lures goldfinches and purple finches out of hiding, while sunflower seed attracts most all birds including chickadees, titmice, cardinals, jays, and other seed cracking birds. Even better is hulled sunflower seed which keeps the ground clean of shells and debris, which promotes bacteria growth. Meanwhile, keep an eye out for the elusive red-breasted nuthatch which can be seen comically creeping vertically up tree trunks digging for insect larvae under the bark. These tiny, charming blue and tan birds are happily unafraid, and will slip in and out like ninjas to grab their beloved sunflower seed from your feeders-- or even from your hands if you are patient.

A packaged suet block is better than butcher’s suet because it’s cleaner and doesn’t turn rancid. Suet attracts, among others, woodpeckers, wrens, mockingbirds, robins and starlings. If starlings become a real problem at your suet feeder, you can discourage them by using a feeder with access only at the bottom. Starlings are reluctant to perch upside down, while chickadees and woodpeckers don't find that a problem. Don't be worried about attracting a few Starlings-- they poke around for grubs in your lawn, keeping Japanese beetles and moles away.

It doesn't take a great poet to appreciate the winter garden--- so, watch the birds for now, plant a tray of tomato seeds to place in a sunny window, and keep the poetry of the coming spring in your heart while waiting for the first blooms. They’ll be here soon. And while Shakespeare’s famous "a rose by any other name would smell as sweet" quote may be a bit overdone, heed the bard’s message -- a few roses or other aromatic and colorful flowers from the greenhouse in a vase on your table wouldn't hurt at this time of year, either.

By Pat Dumas

Doce de Ginja - Traditional Portuguese Recipe

As I was replenishing the shelves after the weekend rush, I came across an enticing little jar that I had not noticed before. Its contents were a lovely deep crimson and it was labeled “Doce de Ginja”.  As I had absolutely no idea what a ginja was, I did a bit of sleuthing on the web and discovered that it was not a new form of martial arts, but rather a variety of sour cherry grown primarily in Portugal. These cherries are often made into a delicious brandy liqueur and sipped from chocolate cups – yum! Less frequently one can find ginja berry jam, and that’s exactly what I discovered in our gourmet product collection. When I tried a spoonful of this intriguing “doce,” or “sweet” in Portuguese, it was a fruit explosion in my mouth! Chunky and rich, a perfect balance between tart and sweet, it would be a delightful accompaniment to a D’Artagnan Magret Duck Breast or Heritage Ham. However, being a cheese monger at heart, I couldn’t resist trying a few Spanish cheeses with my new found favorite jam. The artisanal sheep’s milk Zamarano was a sweet and slightly nutty compliment to the Doce de Ginja and certainly worth a try. But my favorite by far was Garrotxa, a pasteurized goat’s milk cheese from Catalonia. This lovely white, semi-firm cheese with herbal notes paired beautifully with the ginja berries. A marriage made in heaven! A wedge of Fromager D’Affinois smothered in Doce de Ginja would be a delicious lunch treat or after dinner dessert. Now my only problem is to keep from eating the rest of the jar until then!


Enjoy!

Cheri the Cheese monger

The Lighter Side of Chocolate

A selection of milk chocolate items at Sickles Market will receive the 15% Gourmet Club discount from February 15 to February 28, 2010 at Sickles Market. The selection includes Fran’s Deep Milk Chocolate 40% Cacao Pure Chocolate Bar (1.1 oz), Green & Black’s Organic Milk Chocolate (3.5 oz), Lake Champlain All Natural Milk Chocolate 34% Cocoa (3 oz), and Godiva Chocoiste Solid Milk Chocolate (1.5 oz).


Milk Chocolate is sometimes considered the second-class to the first class Dark Chocolate. Studies have shown that dark chocolate boasts many health benefits like red wine. It can improve cardiovascular health, is packed with natural antioxidants, and sits in the same good-for-you category as almonds and blueberries. While this is all wonderful and helpful information, I would put aside all of those health benefits just for a taste of artisanal milk chocolate.

Milk chocolate is creamy, rich, and melts in your mouth just like “butta”. It enhances pastries, confections, desserts, and for me is equal in taste to that of dark chocolate. Milk Chocolate varies from brand to brand and higher end brands tend to contain a higher percentage of chocolate solids and chocolate liquors. Finding the best milk chocolate involves a few easy steps. Look for brands that contain pure ingredients and no artificial flavorings. The taste should be smooth on the palate without a greasy aftertaste.

A few facts you should know about milk chocolate. There is a big difference between the cocoa amounts of milk chocolate in the U.S. and cocoa amounts in Europe. First, European milk chocolate contains much more cocoa. The E.U. requires a minimum of 25% chocolate solids and liquors, whereas milk chocolate made in the U.S. requires only 10% concentrations of chocolate liquor and solids. You can taste the difference between brands like Hershey’s compared to Lindt. This is not to say that milk chocolate in the U.S. is bad. Vermont’s Lake Champlain has a wonderful milk chocolate bar and there are many other U.S. specialty chocolate makers that take care in the amount of cocoa solids their milk chocolate contains.

Invented in the 1870’s by Swiss confectioner Daniel Peter, the milk chocolate process involves solidifying chocolate using condensed milk, which was developed by Henri Nestle in the 1800’s. In the beginning of his process, Daniel had a problem removing the water from the milk when trying to create milk chocolate. With the help of Mr. Nestle and his condensed milk, this ingredient helped milk chocolate come to life in 1875 and become one of the best selling chocolates in the food world. Recently, milk chocolate has been popping up on many restaurant menus and chocolatiers have been using it more prominently in their candies compared to the overused dark chocolate. Recipes for milk chocolate soufflés, milk chocolate shakes, and malted milk chocolate ice cream from Ciao Bella (my favorite!) have been popping up all over. Milk chocolate also goes well with beer, such as stouts, like Guinness that tends to have chocolate overtones. I hope to have convinced a few dark chocolate lovers, to come over to the lighter side of chocolate but if not, that’s okay. More milk chocolate for me!

Milk Chocolate Pudding with Cream and Raspberry Sauce

Milk Chocolate and Coffee Macaroons

Salted Caramel and Milk Chocolate Mousse

The Late Winter Garden

Garden Center Newsletter

February 2010
Pat Dumas

All is not quiet in the late winter garden. Although we might see bare trees and hydrangeas that look like dried sticks, what sleeps below will raise its head with the first hint of warmth. The bare "bones" of your winter landscape can create a striking outline in your yard and garden during the bleak days of late winter. Take a look around-- a new appreciation awaits in what you’ll see below the gray skies. Birds are looking for food and water in your feeders, bird baths, berry-laden bushes, and trees; evergreens and dried grasses are adding protection for wildlife and giving texture to your winter view. Along with the birds comes their voracious insect appetite- our feathered friends will pluck insect larvae by the thousands from your soil- protecting your garden in exchange for just a bit of seed and much needed water in the cold months.

You can create a lush, green oasis in the heat of a warm home. Precious humidity is created by a tray of wet stones underneath potted plants. February is the perfect month for growing beautiful orchids and mini orchids that bloom with ease in a bright south-facing window. The best seeds are available now for starting inside-- annuals and perennials get a great head start; lettuce and greens sown now can be planted outside on St. Patty's Day. Potted daffodils will cure any homeowner suffering from cabin fever. It’s a good time to replant your windowsill and floor plants with fresh Gardeners Gold Potting Soil. A dose of Miracle-Gro will help your plants adjust to the longer daylight hours with the reward of fresh, new growth.

Tropical plants are a true pleasure for those who love their hands in the soil all year long. They keep on growing with ease and benefit from the added humidity from a spray of water daily. It's important to keep plants hydrated in the dry, warm winter home. This is the time to try those "funny" looking plants like the Pitcher Plant with its long, hanging, insect-luring cups. For a more conventional look, the hot colors of Begonias, Cyclamen, and Hydrangea give a long-lasting lift to a tired and weary winter home.

Our friendly staff is brushing off the ice and cold and waiting to help you refresh your landscape- inside and out.

The Perfect Beaufort

This week’s Gourmet Newsletter is about lovely fromage, more specifically Beaufort cheese. Beaufort is a perfect cheese. Its flavors are similar to a Swiss Gruyère or French Comté. The name comes from a small rural farm town in the département of Haute‐Savoie in the French Alps. Beaufort has been around since the Roman times and is known as one of the finest cheeses of the French mountains. Beaufort comes in three versions: Beaufort, Beaufort d’été (summer Beaufort), and Beaufort d’Alpage (Alps Mountains). Beaufort has earned itself a Protected Designation of Origin, which means that only cheese produced from Tarine (or the Tarentaise cows), which are pastured in the summer, can be labeled Beaufort. These cows live in the French mountains and graze exclusively on natural pastures. Beaufort d’Alpage, which is made in chalets, is from the lush, end of summer milk, high in the alpine pastures. The hard, yellowish rind that can be found on Beaufort changes in color during affinage or the process of aging. The rind is highly edible and gamey tasting. All Beauforts are aged in cellars for at least six months.


Beaufort is richer and creamier than other mountain cheeses. It has a nice scent of butter, milk, and honey. The paste has flowery and herb aromas that you can smell and taste. It is an excellent snack cheese, goes well with fruit, and is delicious as an after dinner cheese. It also works well with smoked salmon, melts perfectly as a fondue, and makes excellent soufflés and cheese tarts. Beaufort pairs well with good dry Champagne, German Rieslings, young French Syrahs, and fine California Chardonnays. Essentially, this is a perfect cheese for cheese lovers and cheese novices.

A note about Beaufort from our Cheese monger, Meghan Mullaney

“Beaufort is one of my favorite cheeses. I was first introduced to Beaufort when I began working in cheese in Massachusetts. My boss called it “the mighty BO‐FORE”. For me, it was love at first taste.

This cheese tastes so elegant and yet is made in the most difficult conditions, on the side of a mountain. It encompasses all that is lovely about the flavors of cheese. Beaufort is nutty, fruity, grassy, sweet and barn‐yardy all at the same time. It melts well and makes an excellent grilled cheese sandwich with ham on a buttery croissant. What a great lunch!

Another reason why I love this cheese, and this time in the mind of a cheesemonger, not a cheese eater, is its physicality. This cheese is a lot of work! The cutting and storing tests my mongering skills and at time’s I feel like I am its mother. It is made in huge 80lb. wheels (as are most gruyère cheeses); therefore, handling it is quite a task.

While it is aged and mighty, the rind and paste are fragile to storage conditions. If the rind gets too moist, it stinks. If the rind gets too dry, it cracks. If the paste is in contact with plastic for too long, it tastes off. If the cheese is not maintained, it molds quickly because it is raw milk and has not been tainted with any preservative defenses. I take special pleasure in taking care of Beaufort.

All this brings me to my last point, my dog. Two years ago I adopted a Bernese Mountain puppy. Hailing from Bern, Switzerland and technically a working dog, these dogs grow to be big, burly and full of vigor. Their appearance, in my eyes, is Alpine elegance. Since I didn’t think “gruyère” had a smooth ring to it, I named my favorite dog after my favorite Alpine cheese, Beaufort Jenkins Mullaney.”

Beaufort Recipes:
Beaufort Cheese Soufflé
Bacon Wrapped Pork Filet Mignon with Beaufort (Not for the faint of heart!)

The Beaufort d’Alpage cheese featured in this newsletter will receive the 15% Gourmet Club discount from February 1 to February 14, 2010.