By Cheri Scolari
5/2011
There is one food that permeates my childhood memories and even now, can sweeten a day gone sour: Ice cream. The very thought of it hastens the balmy summer days and backyard barbeque's. It takes me back to playing hopscotch on the steamy sidewalk in front of my grandma’s house, listening for the tinkling tunes of the ice cream truck, and finally handing over my pennies for a Push-Up, that orange and vanilla creaminess on a stick. Or savoring the dark chocolaty Fudge Brownie cone at Baskin Robbins after bravely surviving my annual doctor visit and vaccines. I risk dating myself when I confess that one of my favorite hangouts in high school was Lippert’s, our local ice cream shoppe, always good for a Root Beer Float or a Tin Roof Sundae after cruising the main on Friday night.Well, my hopscotch and cruising days are long gone, but ice cream is definitely here to stay. As a matter of fact, I am in good company when I am indulging in one of my favorite warm weather pastimes. According to the National Restaurant Association’s What’s Hot in 2011 survey, artisan or house-made ice cream is number one on the list of top trends this year in the dessert category. The survey was conducted among more than 1,500 professional chefs, all members of the American Culinary Federation. I really don’t need 1,500 chefs telling me that ice cream is good stuff though. Especially artisan ice cream. On my recent vacation to San Fransisco in April, I had the chance to stop by the foodie haven, Bi-Rite Market, and check out their creamery, where I tasted heaven on a spoon: Salted Caramel ice cream. The Honey Lavender was quite beguiling as well, but I couldn’t stop thinking about that Salted Caramel. Unfortunately, Bi-Rite doesn’t ship their ice cream products, so I had to find an alternative solution.
I was delighted to discover that Jeni Britton Bauer, artisanal ice cream pro and proprietor of Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams, sells her pints all over the U.S. including at Sickles Market. Jeni’s ice creams are less sweet and more flavorful than the traditional American ice cream and she only uses the freshest local ingredients and responsibly raised products from around the world. And best of all, Jeni has Salty Caramel, as well as other amazing flavors such as Corn Syrup Custard With Whiskey and Pecans, and Brambleberry Crisp. They are a bit pricey, but a little goes a long way and the flavor experience is something you won’t forget You’ll also find that it’s hard to go back to the regular grocery store brands after tasting real artisan-made ice cream. If you would prefer to try your own hand at making ice cream, you can check out Jeni’s book, The Homemade-Ice-Cream-Bible (to be published in June, artisanbooks.com), and create your own decadent combinations.
Sometimes I am in the mood for a scoop of vanilla ice cream, pure and simple, and nothing else will do (although a Tate’s dark chocolate chip cookie on the side would be fine too). When vanilla is calling my name, I turn to Gifford’s Old Fashioned Ice Cream. It is the best of both worlds: vibrant vanilla bean and rich dairy cream. In addition to being great ice cream, Gifford’s hails from Maine (they even have a Lobster Tracks flavor!) and has been family owned and managed for five generations. The company supports local farmers in the Northeast and all the milk used is artificial growth hormone free. The company has a plethora of awards including 2010 Grand Champion at the World Dairy Expo, and my favorite, First Place at the 2010 People’s Choice Award at the New Jersey Ice Cream Festival. Try leaving a quart out on the counter for ten minutes or so, until it gets a little melty, then dig in with a spoon, and you’ll see why Gifford’s is New Jersey’s favorite!
I love ice cream because, besides being delicious, it is so versatile. When you need to dress it up, you can layer contrasting flavors in an ice cream terrine. This recipe uses pistachio ice cream, black currant sorbet and lemon frozen yogurt and with a sprinkling of chopped pistachios. Ice cream bonbons are fun and elegant with their silky coating of chocolate and light flakes of sea salt. Surprising ice cream toppings liven up a party as well. At the end of my birthday dinner at Via 45 in Red Bank recently, I was delighted to receive a dish of basil sorbet accompanied by fresh strawberries, a drizzle of aged balsamic and a candle, rather than the usual tiramisu. Another delicious combination is praline pecan ice cream with crumbled bacon and maple syrup. Or add a hot espresso to your cold gelato and create your own version of affogato, the Italian version of a fountain drink eaten with a spoon. When I want to take my ice cream to the beach or a backyard barbecue, Ciao Bella’s Key Lime Graham Squares are the way to go. These SOFI gold award winning frozen treats are not even in the same ball park with other ice cream sandwiches. The all natural, richly decadent gelato is bursting with tart lime flavor and sandwiched between slightly savory graham crackers. When you don’t have time to cook, simply pile these little gems on a platter and your dessert will be the hit of the party.
I’m looking forward to the sunny days ahead, holiday cookouts and long strolls on the boardwalk. But most of all, I’m screaming for ice cream!
Enjoy!
Cheri the Cheesemonger








